The meaning of batik

What is batik?

I can safely make this statement that while many people know or have heard about this word, especially so here in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia, but many people do not, or rather, have got a wrong misconception of batik itself.

In my discussions with friends and general public, many people have mistaken batik with batik design/ batik designs or even batik fabric.

History has it that batik is an old craft that dates centuries back. Batik is actually a hand-drawn and hand-painted technique, which uses wax.

The wax is a form of 'resist' method, and the purpose of this method is so that when colour is put on a certain spot on the fabric, it does not run to the other part. Let's take an example - an artist is is going to draw a floral motif and he wants the background blue eg. the motif of a flower (a yellow flower with a green stalk).

Now, imagine that the artist will be drawing on a white piece of cloth. The artist will first draw the outline of the motif (ie. the flower & stalk) with wax. And later, he will start to paint, starting with the yellow colour of the flower. What the wax does is to hold the yellow in place, so that it will not run to the green stalk. And when he paints with green next, the same thing applies, that is the green will not flow to the yellow flower. Finally, he paints the blue background.

And of course, the artist will later have to wash the wax off the cloth, hence leaving that part which was originally covered with wax back to its original white fabric colour. Hence, the white outline for the motif. And that is all it is to the meaning of batik.

However as mentioned earlier, a lot of people mistake batik with batik design/ batik designs especially if they see a traditional or floral type motif, or patterns on a cloth that have white outlines. These may or may not necessary come from the 'batik' technique, as it could come from modern day print.

In addition, just because these prints have the more traditional motifs/ patterns, don't mistake them to come from the art form of batik.

In fact, there are modern designs, which actually are made from the batik technique as well. But people do not know it is so because it does not have the traditional look and feel to it.

So my suggestion to you that if you appreciate art, and batik in particular, first be aware whether the fabric you buy really comes from the batik art. And secondly to be open minded to embrace the change in modern times that batik need not necessary relate just to old motif/ patterns.

Process of making batik cap

Introduction If you are passionate about textiles with exotic color and texture the chances are good you have a special love for batiks. It's easy to be captivated by these stunning color-saturated marvels. While there always seems to be a place in a batik lover's stash for a new "Bali" few of us know much about the fascinating, time-honored processes that are used to make our batik fabrics. In order to discover where the batiks in our local fabric store come from, let's take a virtual trip into an Indonesian batik factory.

Batik making process

Batik making is an ancient art for embellishing cloth through the use of wax, (or other media that creates resist), and dyes. While batik fabric is produced in India, China, Thailand and in several African nations, it is most renowned in Indonesia and Malaysia. In these areas there are two basic processes used to produce batik fabric; Batik Tulis (hand drawn batik) and Batik Cap (stamped batik). This article will focus on the production of stamped batik.

Batik cap process

Stamping, involves the application of molten wax to cloth with the use of a metal or wooden stamp called a cap, (Pronounced Chap). The cap is a cookie cutter-like devise that is created in the image of the batik motif that it intends to produce. The stamping process begins with the preparation of the cloth.

Nyolet or coloring process

Cloth Preparation and Application of Base Colors Raw fabric must first be prepared before it can undergo batik production. The prep involves the removal of impurities and starch. Often this is done by bleaching the fabric before it arrives at the batik factory. If the base cloth is heavily starched it may be washed to improve the penetration of the dye to those parts of the cloth left un-waxed. After fabric prep it's often necessary to apply base colors to the fabric before the wax is applied. The base colors fill the surface area inside of the motif positions that are eventually shaped by the wax resist (we can called this process nyolet). In situations when the base color must be applied the fabric is often placed on the factory floor.

Mopok Process

The Application of wax After the base colors have been applied to the prepped fabric, it's time to apply the wax. Usually the fabric is draped over a padded table which provides the necessary give to the pressure of the stamp. Before it is melted, the wax is in the form of blocks. The wax blocks are placed in an open pan called a Wajan that sits on top of a small barbecue-like stove. The wax is applied to the fabric after it is melted to the right consistency. The batik artisan dips the stamp into the pan until its surface is covered with molten wax and applies the stamp to the cloth (its called "mopok process)". The artisan must carefully dovetail the wax impression into the ones that have already been created to avoid unsightly gaps in the repeat of the motif.

Dyeing After the wax has been applied, the cloth is ready to be over-dyed. The dyes are color matched by staff members and than applied in large cement baths. Areas covered by wax will resist the dyes and will create the shapes of the desired motifs. The dyeing process is repeated several times depending upon the colors and complexity of the design. Occasionally a final application of black or other dark color is made to emphasize the design elements of the pattern.

lorod process

Removal of the Wax After the cloth has been rinsed and dried, the wax is removed entirely by dipping in hot water(called "lorod process". The wax is often saved and re-used. The cloth is then washed with a mild detergent, rinsed to remove excess dye and hung in the sun to dry. Creases may be removed by an electric press. The fabric is later rolled on tubes and packed for export.

New Frontiers While Indonesian batik-making has been ongoing for centuries it is undergoing a period of dynamic change owing to the needs and creativities of home sewing enthusiasts around the world. Old batik techniques are given new applications and new base fabrics expand the potential uses of batik. Western fabric companies now offer 108"-wide batik backing, batik flannel, silk batik and many new thematic groups of stamped batiks and hand-dyed batik. All-inall it's an exciting time of renewal for this ancient fabric making process.